| |
|
| |
|
 |
- now that you have drained the oil and removed the motor from the scooter its time to tear it down.
- A engine stand and bench vice will make you life alot easier
- I will spin it around to show you how cool this engine stand is and how much access it gives you
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- unclip the high tension coil wire
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- pull the spark plug and throw it away
|
 |
|
 |
- remove the 4 nuts that hold the head in place
|
 |
|
 |
- now you can remove the head
|
 |
|
 |
- check the piston for scoring, cracks, etc..
|
 |
- remove the cir clips that hold the wrist pin in place
|
 |
- they may look like this or you may need special cir clip pliers to remove them
|
 |
|
 |
- to push the wrist pin out
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- remove the rubber plug
- you can pry it out with a screwdriver
|
 |
- this is an access hole got points adjustment
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- this method works if you do not have an impact
- strike the end of the ratchet with a hammer it works quite well
|
 |
- behind the nut there is a star washer
|
 |
- use the flywheel puller
- some Vespa scooters have a cir clip that acts as the puller
- back the bolt all the way out
|
 |
- insert the puller and tighten it all the way
|
 |
- hold the puller and tighten the bolt
|
 |
- the flywheel will come right off
|
 |
- inspect the woodruff key for damage
- also be careful it doesn't fall out (its pretty small)
|
 |
- if the flywheel was ever too loose this will be damaged and will need to be replaced
|
 |
|
 |
- remove the junction box
- it can be pried up with a screwdriver
|
 |
- it is a good idea to mark the position of the stator before you remove it.
- 3 screws hold it in place remove all of them
|
 |
- you should have a flat and wavy washer
|
 |
|
 |
- feed the wires down through the case
- inspect them for brittle wires or if the copper is green replace them
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- This is what they look like
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- unscrew the air filter screws
|
 |
- they are different
- S 14743 this is the back one
- S 14436 this is the front one
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- remove the carburetor
- I usually leave the bolts and washers in the carb body its less stuff to lose
|
 |
- remove the gasket with a pick tool or just rip it because you will replace it
|
 |
- remove the screw that is under the gasket
- this holds the carb box on
|
 |
|
 |
- the carb box will now lift off
|
 |
- remove the gasket under the box and replace it
|
 |
- spin the motor to get access to the rear wheel
|
 |
- remove the cap
- you can pry it off with a screwdriver
|
 |
|
 |
- pull the cotter pin out with pliers
- bend the ears straight
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- use a 22mm socket to remove the castle nut
|
 |
- there is a washer behind the nut
|
 |
- now you can remove the hun it should just slide right off
|
 |
- remove the clips on the brake shoe post
- a pair of needle nose pliers work well
|
 |
- after you remove both of the clips
- push the brake lever as if you were stepping on the pedal
|
 |
- this will allow you to stick a pry par or screwdriver under the brake shoe between the pin and the shoe
|
 |
- now get another pry bar and ply like so
- the brake shoe will come right off
|
 |
- this is what you should have
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- There are 4 rubber O-Rings behind it
- Remove them with a small pick tool
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- This is what you should have
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- You should have 1 6mm Lock and 1 6mm Flat washer
|
 |
|
 |
- remove and replace the O-ring off the cover
|
 |
- with a small pick tool remove the pressure plate
- pull down on the retaining clip
|
 |
|
 |
- You will notice the tab washer has one of the tabs bent into the castle nut bend it out so you can remove the nut.
|
 |
- replace one of the clutch cover bolts
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- it takes a 17mm socket or wrench
|
|
|
|
 |
- after you remove the nut use 2 prybars or 2 large screwdrivers to help pry the clutch off
- it should not take too much force (don't damage the case)
|
 |
- you can remove it the rest of the way by hand
|
 |
- pull out the washer and replace it
|
 |
- remove the spacer from behind the clutch
- and remove the woodruff key
|
 |
- this is what you should have
|
 |
- spin the motor around to the front side
- remove the coil bracket using a philips srewdriver and an 8mm wrench
- there are 2 of them
|
 |
- remove the coil
- you shouldn't replace it if it is working but its not a bad idea to carry an extra one (generally they work or they don't)
|
 |
|
 |
- now move on to the selector box
- remove the 2 7mm nuts with a 11mm socket
|
 |
|
 |
- once you have the nuts removed put a screwdriver in the pinch bolt area
- spin it down as if you were changing gears
|
 |
- it will come off like so
- you can pull it off the rest of the way by hand
|
 |
|
 |
- now you can begin removing the case bolts
- there are 8 bolts one of them is longer than the others (its the one that the cable holder is attached to)
- you will probably not be able to get the longer one out. you can just remove the nut and washers and leave it in the case half
- behind where the stator was there are 4 studs the you will have to remove the nuts from as well
|
 |
|
 |
- the bottom bolt is backwards and the nut is on the other side
|
 |
- after you remove all 12 nuts and washers you can split the case halfs
- this tab can be used to force them apartif you dont have the Case Seperator Tool
|
 |
- use a punch and tap the bottom apart (gently)
|
 |
- once it seperated a little use the rubber mallet and tap the top
- repeat the procedure on the bottom then top, working the halfs apart a little at a time.
- the kick start gear and spring will probable fall out, just make sure you find them.
|
 |
- if you have the Case Seperator Tool it will be ALOT easier and there is less chance you will screw up the case
|
 |
- start by backing out the large bolt on the puller all the way
|
 |
- using the thumb screws provided thread them into the holes that hold teh flywheel cover in place
|
 |
- there are 3 of them
- thighen all of them as tight as you can get them by hand
|
 |
- now slowly tighten the bolt
|
 |
- the case will begin to seperate
- after a few more turns you will be able to seperate it by hand
|
 |
|
 |
- if the kick start gear spring didn't fall out remove it
|
 |
- remove the case gasket and don't even think of reusing it
|
 |
- a good way to remove the rear axle is to thread the castle nut on backwards
|
 |
|
 |
- once you knock it free you can remove it by hand
|
 |
- spin the motor and bend the Tab Washer so you can take the nut off
|
 |
|
 |
- you cna buy a Kit to replace everything (since you are bending the tab washer its a good idea to replace it)
|
 |
- to remove the Cush Drive just push the end you just took the nut off.
- with your other hand hold a rag to catch the Needle Bearings
|
 |
|
 |
- simply pull the shaft out
|
 |
- and pull the Cush Drive out
- HERE are some instructions on how to Rebuild it
|
 |
- I usally don't remove the Oil Sling unless Im gonna sand blast the case but if you do DON'T FORGET TO PUT IT BACK IT.
- When you have to motor put back together and you see it in you parts bowl or whatever you use to store your parts you will be pissed
|
 |
- to remove the crank you can do the same method as removing the rear axle by putting the clutch nut on backwards
|
 |
|
 |
- another way is to use a pointed puch
|
 |
- set it into the recess in the crank and tap a tap a tap a
|
 |
- you can finish it off with the rubber mallet
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- insert the shaft into the canter of the Bearing from the Clutch side
|
 |
- insert the pin in to other side of the tool
|
 |
- put the cup piece on and thred the nut on
|
 |
|
 |
- insert the bolt in the shaft to tighten it on the bearing
|
 |
|
 |
- now tighten the large nut while holding the shat from turning
|
 |
- the bearing will come right out
- You can also tap it out with a large socket (but be careful)
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- from the inside punch it out you can use a long socket extension or a long punch
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- next remove the Brake Arm and Cam
- the only reason to remove this is to replace the 2 rubber o-rings on the Cam
|
 |
- let the tension off the arm by removing the spring from it
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- here are the O-Rings (they are in the Gasket Set)
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- just tap it with the rubber mallet
- catch them on the other side
|
 |
- the Quadrent and Spring will come out at the same time
- there is an O-ring inside the case you should replace (it can be a cause of an oil leak)
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- use the same procedure as above
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
- the best way I came up with was to tap it out with a small aluminum punch
- you will have to replace if if you do it this way
|
 |
|
 |
- if you are reusing the Crankshaft you will have to remove the half of the FlySide Bearing that stay on the Crank
|
 |
- you can cut it off (not reccomended)
- or use this Puller
|
 |
- this lip goes under the Bearing
|
 |
|
 |
- insert the Crank Wedge (or a wooden wedge)
|
 |
- insert the puller with the collar all the way up
|
 |
- gently tap it down until it bottoms out
|
 |
- hold the tool with a wrench and twist clockwise by hand
|
 |
|
